CHARLOTTE, NC

Anchorage at the Pipeline Canal

We finally made it to Charleston, after leaving Oriental, NC, on Wednesday, November 9^th. We spent a night in Morehead City, and by Friday we were anchored at a very nice spot on the Pipeline Canal, just past Southport, NC.

Disaster struck on Saturday in South Carolina as we were passing through the Pine Island Cut, the infamous “Rockpile”. We hit a submerged rock when we drifted out of the narrow channel while trying to avoid an oncoming boat. After the impact, water quickly flooded over the floorboards in the starboard hull. Our pumps couldn’t keep up with the flow and we were stuck on the rock on a falling tide, about two and a half hours from low. We radioed TowBoatUS for assistance and were dragged off by TowBoat helped by Sea Tow.  Unfortunately, when they took us in tow, they banged us into the rocks again, this time damaging the port hull. When Anchor Marina in North Myrtle Beach lifted Bottlenose, it revealed the shocking sight of a 7” diameter hole in the starboard keel.

Hole in the starboard keel

Damage to the port keel

The boat was put on the hard and the next week was spent dealing with insurance, cleaning out the thick Carolina mud that had sucked into the boat and having the marina make temporary repairs to enable us to continue on our way before more permanent repairs. There is a Hampton Inn very near the marina, so we had a convenient place to stay while the boat was up on blocks. Vince did a nice job on the fiberglass repair and the following Saturday we were back in the water.

In consultation with our insurance adjuster, we had decided that Ross Marine in Charleston would be a good place to have the final repairs made, so we continued on our way south. It sure felt good to be back on Bottlenose again!

What remained to be done was reinforcing the hull repairs, tabbing keel bulkheads that had come loose, patching some seams, and making miscellaneous repairs. With Thanksgiving coming up, we didn’t see any point in rushing to Charleston (since nothing would get done until the following week anyway). So we proceeded in leisurely fashion down the very scenic Waccamaw River, and then spending two nights at a marina in Georgetown.

Waccamaw River

Waccamaw River

Georgetown was a great stop: the Rice Museum provided a terrific overview of the rice economy in the 19^th century, when Georgetown shipped more rice than any other port in the world. The rice economy was dependent on slave labor and consequently dwindled and eventually collapsed after the Civil War.

There’s great food in Georgetown. We ate at Limpin’ Jane’s and The River Room and didn’t even have a chance to try the most highly regarded restaurant, The Rice House, which is closed Sundays and Mondays.

We were aiming to get to Ross Marine on the Monday after Thanksgiving, so we had plenty of time when we left Georgetown on Tuesday. We wound up anchoring at Awendaw Creek at about mile 436 (a really nice anchorage if you go in a ways around the bend). The following night we anchored in Dewees Creek and stayed an extra night, celebrating Thanksgiving there. We felt like we had something to be thankful for--being back on the water.

Shrimp boats and pulp mill in Georgetown

From Dewees Creek we had a short motor hop to Charleston where we tied up at the City Marina, intending to stay two nights.

ORIENTAL, NC

After a little over a week out, we've gotten as far as Oriental, NC, Mile 182 on the ICW. Our trip started from home on Monday, October 31st. The start was delayed because the refrigerator stopped working. In fact, there was nothing wrong with the refrigerator; the problem was that there was no power. So Monday morning turned into a rewiring project at Custom Yacht Service. We were fortunate to get going in the afternoon and made it to Jackson Creek for the night.

Waiting for Deep Creek Lock to fill

On Tuesday we had a spirited sail down the bay in a 20 knot northerly, making it to the ICW Mile Marker 0 at Hospital Point.


The following day we opted for the Dismal Swamp route, enjoying the scenery and we found a nice anchorage behind Goat Island on the Pasquotank River. After that, in Elizabeth City we wound up waiting three days for the weather to clear. It blew 25 to 30 from the NE, gusting to 45, so not the best conditions for crossing Albemarle Sound.

Bottlenose at anchor behind Goat Island (Photo by fellow cruiser Bruce Deal)

Porch column, Elizabeth City

Ready to take the plunge

We finally left Elizabeth City on Sunday the 6th, and anchored in the Alligator River for the night. The port engine had been laboring and overheating; I had gotten it into my mind that there might have been something wrapped around the prop. So I decided to dive down to check the port propeller. I knew that the water in the Alligator River was full of tannin, but I was unprepared for it being totally opaque. I couldn’t see a thing; all I could do was to feel around the prop to determine that it was OK. And, boy was it cold! The engine problem turned out to be simple when I found that the alternator/fresh water cooling belt was shredded. Anyway, after I replaced the belt, the engine was fine.

Dawn at Hobucken anchorage

Yesterday we anchored right off the ICW canal slightly South of Hobucken. A scenic anchorage and very convenient. Tomorrow we leave Oriental and head for Morehead City.